Hands down the best single source of annealing information that I found (that is not copyrighted) is here at. This, like many other oversights in reloading, could blow up your gun and seriously injure you. When learning about annealing, I read lots of accounts of people applying heat less than responsibly to their brass. That’ll take an article on its own that we’ll get to soon. What’s more relaxing than a nice sunbath and massage? A blowtorch! Duh.Īs this step demands attention to detail, I will shut up before trying to describe this step completely. It’s much more stressful on the brass, and we need to release some pressure. So, let’s take our dramatic re-shaping that just occurred. And, at a certain point, the brass will become so hard and brittle that is will break, split, separate, etc. Without getting into too much detail let’s consider it like this – we already know that each time we fire a cartridge and resize it, we are hardening the brass. I mentioned a moment ago that we just “worked the brass” a lot. Additionally, if you are converting up or down more than two or three bullet diameters, it’s a good idea to “ease” the brass into the new dimension using multiple steps. While cases don’t tend to get stuck at this point, it definitely makes this step work more smoothly. I will note that I use lube during this step. This completes the largest amount of brass working that we will need to do. 264, as a result of ensuring the shoulder is angled and pushed back correctly. Note that this step does not size the neck but does bring the neck diameter down dramatically from. Forcing the brass through this ensures that the body diameter is sound, while, more importantly, shoving back the shoulder to. My favorite way to do this is to start with a Redding Body Die in the new caliber – for me, that’s. Next, we need to fatten up or slim down that cartridge mouth to the new bullet diameter. Step 2: Necking Up or Down This Redding body die bumps the shoulder back and sizes the body. This also sets the width of the case body to what will be the final dimension, which is common between the. To begin, I full-length size the parent cartridge so that I have a known starting dimension (remember most of my. 260 brass loaded to match ammunition standard. My few pet loads deliver performance superior to those just mentioned and, except for some particularly bad combinations, all loads I have used in converted brass will shoot five-shot groups at one MOA, which is still better than the manufacturer’s baseline three-shot group in one MOA using match ammunition. I have created dozens of loads that will shoot three-shot groups at or under. 308 brass (largely mil-surp) and ended up with significantly better than expected group sizes. I have taken a relatively inexpensive hunting rifle (three digit price tag) chambered in. I wanted to share my learnings because I’ve gotten surprisingly good results.
ONCE SHOT 9MM BRASS HOW TO
After some experimenting, I figured out how to streamline things into a pretty efficient process. Researching case conversion procedures, I found lots of fragmented information about steps you have to perform. The rest of this article will focus on the boiled down process that I follow. Coming up with the brass for it began a pretty big adventure considering that I had never annealed, neck turned, or necked brass up or down. So, I decided on a Tikka CTR chambered in.
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